What Is Retinol Burn? Here's How to Prevent and Treat This Common Side Effect

Whether you’re a retinol novice or a well-seasoned user, there’s one thing we can all agree on: Retinol can be an amazing ingredient for your skin, particularly for brides. It has the unique ability to fight fine lines, boost collagen, even out pigmentation, fade dark spots, and combat acne. However, there are also some not-so-fun retinol side effects if you accidentally overuse it, including retinol burn.

"People are eager to start a new retinol and think more is more, but that is not the case—you have to be super careful when introducing it into your skincare routine," says Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. "Overuse or incorrect use can be either using the product too often, in the wrong spots on your face, or starting off with an intense formula that is too strong for your skin. Less is more with retinols, and it’s important to listen to your skin during the adjustment period."

Is your skin feeling particularly sensitive due to retinol irritation? Read on for expert advice on how to restore your skin after a retinol burn.

Signs You May Have Retinol Burn

Symptoms of retinol burn vary by skin type and tone. "Retinol burn looks like red, scaly, itchy skin in lighter skin tones or brown/purple scaly patches in melanin-rich skin tones," says Dr. Naana Boakye, a board-certified dermatologist. Skin that is inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding are other indicators of this condition. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that are not usual for your skin," Idriss adds.

While these symptoms may sound vaguely similar to any type of skin irritation or dry dermis, there's a stark difference when it comes to retinization. "With a retinol burn, skin is going to be more and more raw, more irritated, and more 'angry,' whereas other skin conditions don't necessarily have those symptoms," Idriss says.

What Causes Retinol Burn?

Retinol burn is ultimately the result of too much of a good thing. "Retinol encourages cell division in the deepest (basal) layer of cells," says Dr. Mervyn Patterson, the medical director of Woodford Medical. "Too much retinol will produce too much cell division, causing large numbers of immature cells to rise up to the surface without the proper bonds to hold them together." When too many cells rise up to the surface, the skin can start to peel, as the lipids and bonds that are needed to hold them together haven’t yet formed. Without these protective bonds, other skincare products are able to penetrate deeper than they’re supposed to, resulting in skin sensitivity, stinging, and redness.

On the skincare spectrum, retinol is more likely to cause irritation. If you use it incorrectly, you're more likely to experience a negative reaction. Below, we break down some other key causes of retinol burn to watch out for.

Starting Retinol Too Quickly

Dr. Carol Eisenstat, a skincare expert and the founder of Line Eraser MD, often sees retinol burn after a patient first begins using the ingredient. Make sure to start using it slowly (only two or three times a week) and gradually increase the application frequency as your skin adjusts.

Using Too High of a Concentration

"When it comes to retinol, higher concentration does not necessarily mean better results," says Dr. Linda Xing, a board-certified dermatologist. "It is more effective with consistent long term use, rather than having to stop and restart frequently if your skin cannot tolerate a stronger retinol." Products with a high concentration of retinol (around one percent) may make you more susceptible to adverse side effects.

Apply Retinol on Damp Skin

"Applying retinol on damp or sensitive skin can intensify its effects, increasing the likelihood of retinol burn," Eisenstat says.

Skipping SPF

Sunscreen should be a part of any skincare routine, but it's particularly important when retinol comes into play. Skipping this protectant could enhance the effect of retinol burn on your skin and contribute to further discomfort, Eisenstat says.

Combining Retinol With Exfoliants

Combining retinol with other harsh products, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), will increase the likelihood of irritation, Eisenstat says.

Using Retinol on Compromised Skin

Applying this ingredient to skin that is already broken or sensitized should always be avoided, Boakye says.

Areas That Are Most Susceptible to Retinol Burn

While you can experience retinol burn anywhere on your face, there are two key areas that are particularly prone to this type of irritation: around your eyes and mouth. The skin around your eyes is thinner than the dermis on the rest of your face, which is why you need to take caution when applying retinol-based eye creams, Boakye says. And according to Eisenstat, the skin around your nose and your neck is often thin and delicate, requiring it to be treated with even more care when it comes to retinol application.

Expert-Approved Retinol Burn Treatments

Looking for a way to treat retinol burn? Here, the experts break down the best treatments to consider turning to.

Over-the-Counter Steroids

If you're experiencing retinol burn, start by paring back your pre-wedding skincare. "Cut out all exfoliating acids for risk acuity and stop using any sort of other retinol alternative," says Idriss. "If your skin is really red and angry, you could use a topical over-the-counter steroid for a few days—a few days being key, because you don't want to overuse steroids on your skin." The topical steroids will reduce the inflammation and allow your body's natural healing process to take over.

Hydrating Moisturizers

A moisturizer rich in reparative ingredients can also help speed up the healing process in the wake of a retinol burn. "I recommend using a product that is rich in lipids and ceramides to help repair the skin," Boayke says. Another ingredient to look to avoid in your face lotion or cream? Hyaluronic acid. Avoid products with harsh or active ingredients until your skin recovers," Eisenstat advises.

Vaseline

Your grandmother's favorite do-it-all skincare staple does it again. "You want to protect your skin barrier," says Idriss. "Honestly, Vaseline is your best bet." Petroleum jelly, the primary ingredient in Vaseline, is an occlusive that creates a barrier on top of the skin to protect the agitated area from further irritation and keeps bacteria from getting in. While the product won't help add moisture, it will lock it in to support healing.

How to Prevent Retinol Burns

When it’s time to reintroduce retinol into your routine, consider starting with a lower-strength product and building up the potency (and your tolerance) gradually over time. "My number one tip is consistency over intensity," says Idriss. "Using the least intense form of retinol over weeks, months, or even years will allow your skin to adjust more seamlessly to the product and will limit irritation so skin will be nourished, firm, and at rest to receive all of the best benefits."

A good starting point is 0.3 percent retinol. Only use it twice a week at first, and slowly build up your tolerance. You just need a thin layer (a dime-sized blob is enough for treating the face) for the ingredient to kick in. Avoid any sensitive areas, such as your eyes (especially your eyelids!) and the creases around the sides of your nose, as the product tends to gather here and can worsen flaking. "If the retinol is too strong, go for a retinol ester instead," Idriss says. "If a retinol ester is too light, go for a retinal followed by a retinoic acid and then go for a prescription. You want to treat your retinols as if they are caviar—less is more. When used correctly, they help to even out pigmentation, help support collagen production, and help smooth out fine lines." 

The Most Common Retinol Side Effects

Retinol burn isn't the only side effect you may experience by introducing this ingredient into your skincare routine. You also may have skin irritation, redness, peeling, flaking, or dryness, Xing says. says. "Because of the increased cell turnover, you may also experience increased sensitivity to sunlight also known as 'photosensitivity,'" she adds.

How to Treat Other Retinol Side Effects

If you've overdone it with retinol, don’t panic. Be mindful that anything you now put on your skin has the ability to penetrate much deeper than usual. Treating other retinol side effects will be similar to how you combat retinol burn. Avoid anything fragranced and look for calming products and ingredients like aloe and cica. Cica balms have been used for centuries to treat burns, cuts, irritation, and redness, so they're perfect at calming and soothing sensitized and irritated skin.

Retinol also makes your skin way more sensitive to UV rays, so it’s important to wear an SPF 50 daily and try to keep your skin out of the sun as much as possible while it heals. As for makeup, try to avoid applying it until pain and redness have reduced. When it comes to foundation and concealer, look for products with a silicone base, as they won't penetrate or react with your skin at a deeper level.

"While mild side effects are common and not usually a cause for concern, if symptoms persist or worsen, it's advisable to consult a dermatologist for guidance," Xing says. "One final side effect to be mindful of is the fact that retinol/retinoid is not safe to use while pregnant or breastfeeding, so be sure to stop during those periods in your life."

Retinol Alternatives That Have a Lower Risk of Irritation

If you've been burned by retinol—literally—or simply want a gentler option, consider other ingredients that offer similar benefits. "Bakuchiol is a fantastic alternative to retinol," Boakye says. Eisenstat also recommends considering niacinamide or peptides. "These can provide some of the benefits of retinol without the potential for irritation," she says.

Whether you decide to stick to retinol or try an alternative, make sure to speak to the experts before starting a new skincare routine. "It's crucial to consult with a skincare professional to determine the right routine for your specific needs—especially when using potent ingredients like retinol," Eisenstat says.