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Photo by Shannon Moffit
Congratulations, you've found your dream wedding dress! But while the hardest part might be over, there are some additional details you now have to attend to, such as alterations and fittings, finding your ideal veil, and, most importantly, figuring out the exact science of bustling. However, though the process of bustling a wedding dress may sound easy to manage (after all, most brides bustle their gowns, so how hard can it be, right?), it does come with a few challenges—especially since there are several wedding dress bustle types to consider. That's why it's best to familiarize yourself with these various styles before heading into your first fitting and speaking to your seamstress.
Ahead, we break down the top five wedding dress bustle types every bride should know—plus, the top three bustle mistakes all brides should avoid. Read on for more.
What Is a Wedding Bustle?
To bustle a wedding dress refers to the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that a bride can walk freely without tripping over her ensemble throughout the night. And, contrary to popular belief, this bridal alteration isn't solely reserved for large ball gowns: Any dress that is floor length can be bustled to create a shorter hemline post-ceremony.
Mistakes to Avoid When Bustling a Wedding Dress
Want to ensure your wedding dress gets bustled securely and correctly? Here, we highlight the top three mistakes to avoid before and during the big day.
Trying to bustle your wedding dress alone.
Once you're in your wedding dress, it's nearly impossible to effectively put the bustle in place yourself. That's why it's important to enlist the help of your maid of honor, a bridesmaid, your mom, or your mother-in-law to bustle your gown on the big day. In fact, whoever is tasked with this important job will need to attend your final fitting and learn how to alter your ensemble directly from your seamstress.
Not budgeting for your wedding dress bustle.
Wedding dress bustles don't come cheap, and the final price will depend on how many bustle points and what type of bustle you need. In general, the cost of adding a bustle to your wedding dress ranges between $75 to $250, on average, so don't forget to add that cost to your overall fashion budget.
Forgetting to pack a "bustle repair kit."
No matter how carefully your seamstress stitches your bustle, there's always a possibility that it can break during your reception. Wedding dresses can be very heavy, and you're relying on a few delicate bustle points to hold the whole operation in place while dancing, walking, and mingling. Thus, prepare for the worst-case scenario by having safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line on hand in the bridal suite.
If your wedding dress is bustled with ribbons and one of them comes loose, for example, a bridesmaid should be prepped to sew the ribbon back into the dress with a clear fishing line. If the problem is more complicated, though, you can pin the dress together at the broken bustle point with an oversized safety pin.
The 5 Most Common Wedding Dress Bustle Types
Unless your dress is short or tea-length, you're likely going to need a bustle in order to dance and move around comfortably during your reception. But since most wedding dresses come without bustles, use the below guide to work with your seamstress to find the right style to suit your gown.
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Photo by Anna Marks Photography
American Bustle or Over Bustle
An American bustle (also known as an over bustle) has several hooks scattered throughout the waistline of a dress that enables the train to be lifted and hooked over the top of the gown. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pick-up points for an ultra-dramatic look.
- Best for: Ball gowns
- Difficulty level: Easy
Ballroom Bustle
This style tends to transform a dress silhouette from the back, essentially making the train disappear. With a ballroom bustle, it doesn't look like the dress has been bustled but, rather, gives the illusion that it was a floor-length gown all along; multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately. This style, however, is typically the most expensive given that more bustle points need to be sewn in.
- Best for: Ball gowns
- Difficulty level: Intermediate
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Photo by Volvoreta
Austrian Bustle
This unique bustle style is quickly gaining popularity and creates an eye-catching shape. To achieve this style, a seamstress will gather fabric centrally—down the middle of the gown and through the back—creating a vertical illusion similar to ruching. Another benefit of this style? It's particularly easy for bridesmaids to help get things in place for you.
- Best for: Gowns with intricate detailing
- Difficulty level: Easy
Train-Flip Bustle
Like the ballroom bustle, this style gives the illusion of no bustle at all. What's different, however, is that the train of the dress flips under the fabric and is pinned into itself—giving the illusion of a floor-length gown, with an even fuller bottom thanks to the extra fabric attached underneath.
- Best for: Ball gowns
- Difficulty level: Intermediate
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Photo by Tim Ryan Smith
French Bustle, Victorian Bustle, or Under Bustle
A French bustle (also known as a Victorian bustle or under bustle) favors gowns that have a more natural waistline. This technique is the reverse of the American bustle, as hooks pick up the train of the gown as they tuck it under the silhouette itself. Often, ribbons are attached to connect and secure the fabric and can have numerous pick-up points for extra flair. (Think: Belle from Beauty and the Beast.)
- Best for: A-line and mermaid gowns
- Difficulty level: Advanced